A rainy autumn day has led me to stay in my workroom and sew, which has been such a treat!
I spent a happy hour yesterday at 'Rose Tinted Rags' a recycled textiles and arts project in Hereford. They have an amazing amount of vintage fabrics, haberdashery, sewing machines plus lots more and  I came home with a bag full of interesting finds.
Among them was some very cheap new cotton shirting with a pale grey stripe. I thought this would be ideal to try out my vintage Butterick maternity smock.
As with most vintage patterns from that era, the instructions were brief and the pattern unprinted! The pattern is for sale in my Etsy shop, so to avoid making pin holes I used weights to hold the pattern down and a fabric pen to make the dots etc. I decided to make the sleeveless version and the instructions called for me to make a bias armhole facing (no pattern piece supplied) which I did, again using my pen to mark out...but in all honesty I would probably use bias tape if I made the top again.

The shawl collar was the type I hate sewing with a facing that I struggled to make neat, and I wasn't happy with the construction method for the yoke. But perseverance paid off  and this was the finished top....

Excuse the black bin liner over the mannequin, but it is one of my vintage mannequins and in the smaller size that I needed....even though most of its covering has disintegrated!! Recovering will be another job for another day.
Happily my daughter loved the top, and has just taken it home with her.
Just a reminder, this was the pattern used..

Next on my list 'to do' is making some hats....as my millinery has fallen by the wayside lately, and withdrawal pangs are setting in. Ideas abound in the old grey cells including a clothe with soutache decoration...so maybe soon........ x x

Apologies for not keeping up to date with my blog. There has been so much happening what with family weddings, house remodelling, and helping my daughter with her first house move, and now a new baby on the way for her and her family...phew.. Not many hats made...but lots of ideas in the pipeline! I have been sorting through all my vintage patterns for nice baby and maternity ones, and have just done an interview all about them for the Monthly Stitch. Take a look if you like patterns and love sewing

www.themonthlystitch.wordpress.com

Half hat progress

Well, further to my last post, the half hat has changed tack entirely. I was never happy with the size of the pattern or the sewn hat. Having to add darts gave the hat very full sides and almost a winged look.

I decided to cut the pattern much smaller and make the hat from some blocked felt. It was much easier to make and achieved a more pleasing shape. I also cut a strap for the back and stitched this in place. The edges of the hat have had gold and black trim, and a few black beads added. The hat has been stiffened with traditional shellac. I am still dithering about a small veil, what do you think?

I am busy gearing up for my stall at a Vintage clothing fair in Hereford on March 16th. So it has been a lot of fun make fascimiles of 1940s and 50s hats. I saw the one below in a knitting pattern ( you can see the original picture), and decided to have a go. Again it is blocked wool, but I must admit the edges aren't rolled as well as I would of liked...still, its been a learning curve!

Making a half hat pattern

For me the last few weeks have been somewhat of a disaster. My eldest spent the entire Christmas week in hospital, and myself and the rest of the family stayed sober to travel back and forth twice a day. But all is well with him now, and back to full health.

Aside from ill health, the weather has meant a slow down to most things. Freezing cold days (-3c at the moment) and high humidity mean my day job is at a stand still. The builders who are constructing my new kitchen extension are also at a stand still.......so getting back to hats seemed my best option. Particularly as I have a stand at a Vintage fair in just a few weeks!

I found this picture via the web, and although no pattern was available I thought I would try and make the half hat pictured on the right hand side

I then measured out a pattern on grid paper, I guessed from the picture that the hat had to reach at least 7 inches across the crown.

I cut the pattern out in stiff iron on buckram and stretch velour. These were ironed together and then the darts sewn in each side. I then wired the entire edge. This is it so far, and although it sits on a small mannequin, I think I may have to make it slightly smaller next time.

I will continue with this one, and I am planning to decorate the edge with beads and sequins. I will post again when it is finished.

Christmas sock animals

May I take this opportunity to wish everyone a very merry Christmas and a great 2013. I have been sadly lacking in keeping up with my blog, but the day job overtook most things. Which means I am last minute present making, wrapping and generally worrying over. I always make presents for the family and I also try to add some decoration or a funky twist. Ladies were easy this year, but the men always cause me more headaches. In the end I opted to make personalised coasters and these were made and boxed some weeks ago, but I did want something cute to add to the outside. With the ladies, I made festive fabric hanging hearts, but I couldn't come up with an idea for the boys. I could only think of socks, then 'sock monkey' came to mind......but most sock monkeys and animals are cut and sewn, this had to be much easier so that when they took off the elastic bands and sticky eyes...there would be a perfectly formed pair of new socks! Here are my sock animals (I am not sure what breed ...but they look cute enough!)

They are so easy to make just one sock stuffed into the first sock and the bottoms rolled up inside, and a few elastic bands to form the ears and head. A ribbon for decoration and either goggly eyes stuck on using double sided pads or just use some sticking circles or shapes...voila!... and I think they suit the presents better than a bow! I hope you like, and I hope to post more hat related topics come the new year. Happy sewing (or non sewing in the case of the sock animals!) xxx

Making a Fosshape hat..

The last week or so have been madly busy and at last we have glorious sunshine and heat, just in time for the Olympics. As if I haven't enough to do what with some custom hat orders, plus making others for the fun of it, I thought I would take on a new project....

I love to experiment with new materials and I'd heard about a fabric called Fosshape, used primarily for costume making but also suitable for millinery. This is the description of it taken from their website, rather than me waffle on

'Fosshape is a unique patented non woven fabric. The breathable fabric can be cut to shape with scissors and sewn to itself or other fabrics. So what makes it unique?.......... Fosshape can be heated with a domestic steamer [or hot air gun] to form any shape. When heated the material will shrink and become stiff. Its breathable properties and very light weight make it ideal for stiffening costumes and making large headgear and costume props.'

This sounded so intriguing so I contacted the company who make it Wonderflexworld and they kindly sent me a small sample through their UK distributor Flints

and this is where the fun begins..

The sample was about 10 inches by 5 inches, and rather than cut it up and sew it, I thought it best just to try a simple shape at first. Decision was made to make a small half hat, and I cut the fabric into the shape I wanted ( I know...it looks a bit like an eye mask!)

You have to apply heat to the fabric to stiffen it, and HOT heat via a hot air gun or iron or steamer. I thought I would use an old polystyrene head for my first attempt and use the iron. Just in case using the hot air gun ending up with a mess or burns.

I covered the head in a layer of wadding and then 3 layers of tin foil to protect it.

I put the iron on high and steam and then just ironed the fabric in situ. You can stretch and manipulate whilst heating, but as this was a small item and I only needed a symmetrical shape, I didn't bother. I just kept going over with the iron until I felt it 'was done' :) It does shrink in the process, but I found it was minimal and I had accounted for it when cutting my shape out.

This is it once cool and hardened..

and this is it on my new poly head that I've just painted! She is version number 2, and not finished yet, but I think I'm getting better at it!

My conclusions on Fosshape are, that it is much quicker to use than buckram, no waiting around for it to dry, and you also achieve quite a smooth surface, so I won't need to add an interlining. I am not sure what weight fabric I was given, but am inclined to think it was the lighter weight and I feel I will have to wire the edges for extra rigidity, but overall I'm very pleased with it. I felt that if I had a larger piece I could manipulate it quite well and get some good shapes from it. It costs quite a bit more than buckram, but for complicated items it would save a lot of time and therefore money.

Once I have played with this hat base a bit more....I will let you know how it goes... and pics will follow

cheers for now, have fun and enjoy the sun xx

Making a buckram fascinator - Part 2

Well, I started adding decoration to my hat and then suddenly realised that I hadn't photographed it as I went!

My apologies that the veiling and leaves have been sewn on with any tutorial, but this was the easiest bit. I cut some purple, pink and lilac veiling and fussed about with it until I was happy with the look. Its best to keep trying it on your head in front of a mirror, to get it just right. I then added a selection of shiney acrylic leaves in toning and contrasting colours. All of this was stitched through the top fabric, I didn't need to go right through the hat.

Next I cut a small section of blue/grey lining on the bias and tacked this to the underside of the hat.

The next stage is to tidy the edges of the lining etc by covering with tape. Normally i would use grosgrain, but I didn't have any in a suitable colour, so I have used lilac bias binding. I ironed this into a curve first, so that it would fit nicely. Just pull the bias around at an angle whilst running the iron over it.

I've realised that my ironing board cover looks very tatty, and its covered in fabric paint!

The next stage was to stitch the binding in place using very small running stitches along both sides and folding the ends together neatly. I also added my own label

That's it done and now ready for sale! I hope you enjoy reading, and I always look forward to any comments. Best wishes to you all